Complete Skateboard Setup Guide from Scratch

Parts overview

A complete skateboard has seven component categories. Before spending money, understand what each part does and how the pieces interact:

Every part choice affects the others. Larger wheels may require risers. Risers require longer bolts. Loose trucks with soft bushings increase wheel bite risk. Understanding these dependencies before you buy saves you a second trip to the shop.

Step 1: Choose your deck

Deck width is the single most important dimension — it sets the size of the trucks you need, the wheel clearance math, and the riding feel. Wider decks are more stable; narrower decks are easier to flick for tricks.

Deck length ranges from about 31″ to 33″ for standard decks. Length matters less than width for fit, but shorter boards are quicker to spin and longer boards have more foot room and stability at speed.

Deck construction: most street/park decks are 7-ply Canadian maple pressed with water-based or epoxy glue. Longboard and cruiser decks are sometimes 8–9 ply, bamboo, or composite for flex. For 3D-printed accessories like custom riser pads, the deck thickness (typically 10–13mm for 7-ply maple) affects what bolt length you need.

Step 2: Choose your trucks

Match truck axle width to deck width — within about 1/4″ is acceptable, but a precise match gives the best geometry and the most predictable turning feel.

Truck height also matters. Low trucks (closer to deck) are stable and great for tricks. High trucks have more wheel clearance and suit larger wheels without risers. Mid-height trucks are the most common all-round choice.

See the full guide on how to install skateboard trucks for mounting orientation, tightening order, and the wheel bite check after assembly.

Step 3: Choose your wheels

Wheels are defined by two numbers: diameter (mm) and durometer (A or B scale hardness). Larger diameter rolls faster and over rougher ground; harder durometer slides more predictably and is more durable; softer durometer grips and absorbs vibration.

As wheels get larger, the risk of wheel bite during hard turns increases. Always use the Wheel Bite Calculator after choosing your wheel size to confirm whether you need risers and what height. See the full Skateboard Wheel Size Guide for durometer details and wheel-to-style matching.

Step 4: Choose your bearings

Bearings are standardized to fit all skateboard wheels and trucks (608 size, 8mm bore). The ABEC rating describes manufacturing precision — ABEC 7 is the practical minimum for skating; ABEC 9 is common in higher-end bearings.

More important than ABEC rating: bearing quality, lubricant type, and whether they have removable shields. Sealed bearings (rubber shields) resist dirt better for outdoor riding. Metal-shielded bearings are easier to clean. Budget bearings (under $15) will work but need cleaning more often — every 1–3 months with regular street use.

To install bearings: press them into the wheel with an axle or bearing press tool. They should seat flush. Don't over-force them — if they're tilted, remove and re-seat before spinning on the axle. See How to Clean Skateboard Bearings for maintenance, shield removal, and when to replace instead of clean.

Step 5: Understand your bushings

Bushings are the urethane cushions that sit inside your truck's pivot cup, around the kingpin. They're small but they control how the truck turns and, critically, how much lean the board allows — which directly affects wheel bite risk.

Softer bushings compress more during turns, which lets the wheels move closer to the deck. If you're running soft bushings with larger wheels, err on the side of more riser height. See the Skateboard Bushing Guide for shape comparisons (cone vs. barrel) and boardside vs. roadside configuration.

Step 6: Decide on riser pads

Riser pads are flat or angled plastic shims that sit between the truck baseplate and the deck. They do two things: add wheel clearance and (with wedge/angled risers) change the truck's effective lean angle.

When you need risers:

• Wheels over 56mm — almost always need at least 1/8″ (3mm)
• Wheels over 60mm — typically need 1/4″ (6mm) or more
• Soft bushings (below 87A) — increase lean during turns, more clearance needed
• Loose truck setup — more lean = more wheel bite risk
• Narrow deck with wide wheels — less clearance margin

Riser types:

• Flat riser: uniform thickness, raises wheel height without changing truck geometry. 1/8″, 1/4″, 3/8″, and 1/2″ are the common sizes.
• Wedge/angled riser: one edge thicker than the other, which changes the truck's effective base angle. Wedging the front truck increases responsiveness; wedging the rear adds stability. Used extensively in surfskate setups.
• 3D-printed riser: custom-designed with the RISER 3D Builder — any height, any angle, with optimized hole patterns for your specific deck. PETG is the recommended material for outdoor use.

See the Beginner's Guide to Riser Pads and the 3mm vs 6mm vs 10mm comparison to choose the right height. For angled risers on surfskate builds, see the Surfskate Wedge Riser Guide.

Step 7: Choose hardware (bolts)

Skateboard hardware is the set of 8 bolts and 8 locknuts that attach the trucks to the deck. The critical variable is bolt length — it must be long enough to go through the deck, riser pad (if any), and truck baseplate, and still have enough thread for the locknut to grip securely.

Use the Bolt Length Calculator to get an exact recommendation based on your deck thickness, riser height, and baseplate depth. The full Skateboard Hardware Guide covers bolt head styles (flat-head vs. pan-head), Allen vs. Phillips drive, and locknut vs. acorn nut differences.

Step 8: Assembly order

Putting the board together in the right order saves time and avoids having to undo steps. Here's the recommended sequence:

1. Apply grip tape. Peel the backing and apply to the top of the bare deck. Press down firmly from center outward to remove air bubbles. Score the edges with a bolt or screwdriver and trim. Pop the bolt holes through from below.
2. Mount the trucks. Place a riser pad (if using one) on the deck's truck hole pattern. Insert bolts from the top through the grip tape, riser, and into the truck baseplate. Thread on locknuts from below. Tighten in a cross pattern — alternate sides so the baseplate seats evenly. See How to Install Skateboard Trucks for the full procedure including kingpin orientation and tightening torque.
3. Install bearings into wheels. Press one bearing into each side of each wheel. The bearing should seat flush with the wheel hub. Wipe axles clean before installing.
4. Mount wheels. Slide a bearing spacer (if included) between bearings, thread the wheel onto the axle, add the speed ring and axle nut. Tighten the axle nut until it stops spinning freely, then back off 1/4 turn — the wheel should spin freely with minimal lateral play.
5. Adjust truck tightness. The kingpin nut controls how much the truck turns. Tighten for stability (downhill, high speed) or loosen for responsiveness (carving, cruising). See Truck Tightness Guide for starting points by riding style.
6. Do the wheel bite check. Before riding, push hard on each rail of the deck while it's on the ground. The wheel should NOT touch the deck. If it does, add a riser or tighten the trucks. Use the Wheel Bite Calculator to confirm clearance before the first ride.

Step 9: Wheel bite check

Wheel bite is the most common safety issue on new setups with larger wheels or loose trucks. It happens when the wheel contacts the underside of the deck during a hard turn — the board stops instantly and you go flying.

How to check:

• Stand next to the board and push down hard on each rail (the edge of the deck). The wheel should have at least 1–2mm clearance between it and the deck in full lean.
• Kick-turn the board both ways on the ground. If you hear the wheel scraping, you need more clearance.
• If you get bite: first try tightening the trucks. If that's not enough, add a riser pad. Then re-measure bolt length to make sure the bolts are still long enough.

See the full Wheel Bite Guide for root cause diagnosis, and use the Wheel Bite Tool to calculate the recommended riser height before you even build.

Complete setup recommendations by riding style

Street / skatepark setup

Cruiser setup

For a deeper cruiser build guide see Cruiser Skateboard Setup Guide.

Surfskate setup

See the Surfskate Wedge Riser Guide for wedge angle selection and front/rear differential tuning.

Longboard / downhill setup