How to Install Skateboard Trucks

What You Need

• Skate tool or T-tool — 3/8" socket for kingpin nut, Phillips head or Allen key for mounting bolts
• 8 mounting bolts (4 per truck) — correct length for your deck + riser combination
• 8 locknuts — included with most hardware sets
• Riser pads (optional) — if your wheel size needs clearance

Most hardware sets come with 8 bolts and 8 locknuts. Bolts are available in Phillips head or Allen/hex head. Allen bolts strip less easily and are worth the minor extra cost.

Step 1 — Choose the Right Bolt Length

The bolt must pass through the deck, through any riser pad, and into the truck baseplate. It should protrude just enough for the locknut to engage fully — not so long it sticks out and catches on things.

These are standard deck thickness assumptions. Thicker decks (some double-kicks, older-style boards) may need slightly longer bolts. The bolt should be flush or barely past the locknut when fully tightened — no more than 2mm exposed thread.

Step 2 — Decide on Riser Pads

Riser pads go between the deck and the truck baseplate. They add clearance between the wheels and deck, preventing wheel bite when you turn hard.

Do you need risers? Quick test: place your board on the ground, push the nose down firmly (not a stomp — just steady pressure). Check if the wheel scrapes the deck. Do the same with the tail. If either wheel makes contact, you need risers.

• Street, wheels 49–54mm: usually no risers needed
• All-around, wheels 54–58mm: 3mm riser recommended
• Cruiser, wheels 58mm+: 6mm or more required
• Longboard, soft large wheels: 10mm or more

Step 3 — Orient the Trucks

This is the most common mistake for first builds. The kingpin must face inward — toward the center of the deck. Both trucks point their kingpins toward each other.

A quick visual check: when you place both trucks on the deck, the hanger axles should point outward (toward the rails) and the kingpin bolts should point toward the middle of the deck. If the kingpin faces outward (toward the nose or tail), the truck is backwards.

Installing a truck backwards creates inverted truck geometry — the board will want to turn the opposite direction of your lean. It's not just weird feeling; it's genuinely unrideable.

Step 4 — Stack the Layers

With trucks correctly oriented, build the stack from top to bottom:

1. Deck (grip tape side up)
2. Riser pad — if using one, place it over the bolt holes on the bottom of the deck
3. Truck baseplate — place over the riser, holes aligned

Align all four holes carefully. Use a bolt to check alignment — it should drop through all three layers without force. If you have to push hard, something is misaligned.

Step 5 — Insert the Bolts

Insert all four bolts from the top of the deck (through the grip tape). The bolt heads sit on top of the grip tape; the shafts go down through the deck, through the riser, and through the baseplate.

Push them through by hand. If any bolt won't go through smoothly, check that the riser holes are aligned. Don't force bolts — this can strip the deck holes.

Step 6 — Thread the Locknuts

With the truck held against the deck, thread a locknut onto each bolt by hand until it catches. Keep the baseplate pressed flat against the deck while you do this. It helps to hold the bolt head on top with one finger while threading the nut from underneath.

At this stage, just hand-tighten — don't use the skate tool yet. You want all four nuts started before you torque any of them.

Step 7 — Tighten in Cross Pattern

Tighten the bolts in a cross (diagonal) pattern — same as tightening lug nuts on a car wheel. This keeps the baseplate pulling down evenly rather than rocking as one side tightens first.

1. Tighten bolt 1 (e.g., front-left) — a few turns
2. Tighten bolt 3 (rear-right, diagonal) — same amount
3. Tighten bolt 2 (front-right) — same amount
4. Tighten bolt 4 (rear-left) — same amount
5. Repeat until fully tight

Stop when the nylon insert of the locknut is fully engaged and the baseplate has no movement. The grip tape should be slightly dimpled around each bolt head — this is normal. Do not overtighten to the point of cracking the wood or stripping the locknut.

Step 8 — Set the Kingpin Tightness

After the trucks are mounted, set the kingpin nut tightness. The kingpin is the large bolt through the center of the truck — tightening the nut compresses the bushings and stiffens the turning.

• Street / park: Tighten until the truck resists lean noticeably. A common test: press down on the board with your foot; the truck should lean but not bottom out.
• Cruising / carving: Looser — about as tight as the bushings need to be to not rattle. The board should turn easily under body weight.
• Beginner default: Tighten the kingpin nut until just snug, then turn it 2 full turns back. Adjust from there.

There is no universally correct kingpin tightness — it's personal preference. Experiment over a few rides and adjust until it feels right.

Step 9 — Do the Wheel Bite Check

Before your first ride, perform the hand press test again: push the nose and tail firmly toward the ground (as hard as you'd lean during a turn, not as hard as a kickflip stomp). If any wheel scrapes the deck, stop — you have wheel bite. Add riser pads before riding.

Also do a quick roll test in a driveway or flat surface. Make a slow, sharp turn in each direction. If wheels grab the deck, add risers or tighten trucks slightly.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Wrong bolt length: Too short = locknut doesn't engage (truck will loosen). Too long = bolt sticks out and can scratch you or catch obstacles.
• Truck backwards: Kingpin faces inward. Double-check before tightening.
• Overtightening mounting bolts: You're bolting through wood. Crank them too tight and you crack the deck around the holes, or strip the locknut nylon.
• Skipping the wheel bite test: Don't find out about wheel bite in a turn at speed. Test it before riding.
• Forgetting to adjust kingpin: New trucks often come with the kingpin very loose (shipping state). Tighten to preference before riding.

Replacing Trucks on an Existing Board

The process is the same but in reverse first: remove the old locknuts (hold the bolt head on top, unscrew the nut from below), pull out the bolts, and lift off the truck. If you're keeping the same riser pads and they're in good shape, you can reuse them. Check them for cracks or compression marks — replace if deformed.

If upgrading to larger wheels at the same time, recalculate your riser needs before reinstalling.

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