What Are Skateboard Bushings?
Bushings are the urethane rings that sit on the kingpin of your truck, sandwiched between the hanger and the baseplate. When you lean on your board, the bushings compress and deform — this deformation is what creates turn resistance and controls how far the hanger pivots.
Every truck has two bushings per side: one roadside (between hanger and top washer) and one boardside (between hanger and baseplate). Different shapes and hardnesses on each side allow fine-tuning of how the truck responds.
The kingpin nut tightens against the top washer, which compresses the roadside bushing. More compression = more resistance = tighter trucks. But the real tuning happens by swapping bushing hardness and shape.
Bushing Hardness — Durometer Explained
Bushing hardness is measured in Shore A durometer (same scale used for skateboard wheels). Higher number = harder = more resistance to lean.
| Durometer | Feel | Best For | Rider Weight |
|---|---|---|---|
| 78A–84A | Very soft, deep carve | Longboard, downhill carving | Under 130 lbs |
| 85A–90A | Soft, responsive | Cruiser, surfskate, loose street | 130–160 lbs |
| 90A–95A | Medium, balanced | All-around street and park | 150–180 lbs |
| 96A–100A | Firm, controlled | Street skating, technical tricks | 170–210 lbs |
| 100A+ | Very firm, minimal lean | Downhill speed, heavy riders | Over 200 lbs |
Rider weight has the biggest influence on which hardness feels right. A 150-lb skater on 78A bushings will find them mushy and unpredictable; a 120-lb skater on 100A bushings will find the board nearly impossible to turn. Start from the weight range above and adjust by feel.
Bushing Shapes
Shape determines the feel curve — how resistance builds as you lean. Different shapes are suited to different positions (roadside vs boardside) and riding styles.
Cone (Tapered)
The classic shape. The narrow end sits against the washer; the wide base contacts the hanger seat. Cones offer low initial resistance and allow a lot of lean before resistance builds. Great for responsive, easy-turning setups.
- Good for: cruisers, surfskate, beginners, lightweight riders
- Drawback: can feel unstable at speed or under hard landings
- Common position: roadside (top bushing)
Barrel (Cylindrical)
Consistent diameter throughout. Barrels provide more resistance across the full lean range and bounce back to center more aggressively. They feel more stable and controlled than cones.
- Good for: street skating, park, speed, heavier riders
- Drawback: requires more force to initiate turns
- Common position: boardside (bottom bushing), or both positions for maximum stability
Eliminator / Chubby
A wide, squat barrel variant used for downhill and high-speed freeride. The extra width fills the truck seat completely and dramatically limits lean. Not appropriate for standard skateboarding — these are specialty shapes for speed events.
Stepped / Double-stepped
A barrel with a narrower middle section. These combine the initial ease of a cone with the recovery of a barrel. Popular in high-performance street and park setups for heavy riders who want responsive but controlled trucks.
Roadside vs Boardside Bushing Setup
Most trucks come with a cone on top (roadside) and a barrel on the bottom (boardside). This is the standard configuration and works well for most skaters. But swapping shapes allows significant feel differences:
| Configuration | Feel | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Cone / Barrel (stock) | Balanced — responsive initial lean, stable return | All-around use |
| Cone / Cone | Very loose, deep carve, low resistance | Surfskate, casual cruising |
| Barrel / Barrel | Firm throughout, high speed stability | Street, park, downhill, heavier riders |
| Barrel / Cone | Firm initial lean, soft recovery | Technical street skating, tricks |
When running asymmetric configurations on a setup with front and rear trucks, you can run different combos per truck. A common surfskate configuration: front truck cone/cone for maximum carve response, rear truck barrel/barrel for stability.
Washers — The Often-Ignored Variable
Washers sandwich the bushings and influence how they compress. Bigger washers = more surface area = more control over compression. The key washer types:
- Flat washers: Standard on most trucks. Neutral compression.
- Cupped washers: Cup-shaped, wraps around the bushing top. Creates a tighter, more controlled deformation — adds stability without changing bushing hardness.
- Nylon washers: Reduce chatter and creaking, smooth out turn feel. Not structural.
Swapping stock flat washers to cupped washers on the roadside bushing is a free upgrade that makes trucks feel more planted without requiring a harder bushing.
Bushings and Wheel Bite
The relationship between bushings and wheel bite is direct: softer bushings allow more lean → more lean means the wheel travels closer to the deck during turns → more chance of the wheel touching the deck (wheel bite).
This is why setup advice for cruisers often involves both soft bushings (for carving feel) AND riser pads (to compensate for the extra lean those soft bushings allow).
Use the RISER 3D Wheel Bite Tool to simulate how bushing hardness interacts with your wheel size and riser height. Enter your setup specs and it will show whether you have adequate clearance at maximum lean.
How to Replace Skateboard Bushings
- Remove the kingpin nut completely (skate tool, 3/8" socket).
- Remove the top washer and pull the roadside (top) bushing off the kingpin.
- Slide the hanger off the kingpin — the boardside (bottom) bushing is now exposed.
- Remove the bottom washer and bushing. Check the bushing seat for debris — clean if needed.
- Install new bottom bushing and washer.
- Slide hanger back onto kingpin.
- Install top bushing and washer.
- Thread the kingpin nut. Tighten until bushings are just compressed, then adjust to preference.
Total time: about 5 minutes per truck. No special tools beyond a skate tool or T-tool.
Choosing Bushings by Riding Style
| Style | Recommended Setup | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Street / Park | Barrel/barrel, 92A–100A | Harder = more stable for landing tricks |
| Cruising | Cone/barrel or cone/cone, 87A–92A | Paired with 6mm+ riser pads for clearance |
| Surfskate | Cone/cone front, barrel/barrel rear, 85A–90A | Asymmetric for carve response |
| Longboard carving | Cone/cone, 78A–87A | Large riser pads required to prevent wheel bite |
| Downhill / Speed | Barrel/barrel (or eliminator), 95A–100A+ | Stiff = stable at speed, no lean = no wheel bite |
FAQ
What durometer bushings should I get for street skating?
Most street skaters run 92A–97A. This gives stable resistance during tricks while still allowing turn response. Heavier riders (180 lbs+) go toward 97A–100A; lighter riders (under 140 lbs) often prefer 88A–92A.
Do bushings affect wheel bite?
Yes. Softer bushings allow more lean, bringing wheels closer to the deck during turns. If wheel bite happens only during hard carves, switching to harder bushings (90A+) or adding riser pads will solve it. Riser pads are the better fix when you want to keep responsive trucks.
What is the difference between cone and barrel bushings?
Cone bushings are tapered — they allow more lean with less resistance, making turns easy to initiate. Barrel bushings are cylindrical — they provide more resistance throughout the lean and feel more stable. Most trucks use cone on top, barrel on bottom. Replacing both with barrels adds firmness and control.
How often should I replace skateboard bushings?
Replace bushings when they show visible cracks, flat spots, or mushrooming (spreading beyond the washer edge). Quality urethane bushings last 6–18 months of regular riding. Budget bushings included with new trucks often need replacing after a few months.