Skateboard Wheel Size Guide

The Two Numbers That Define a Skateboard Wheel

Every skateboard wheel is defined by two specs:

• Diameter (mm) — how large the wheel is. More mm = faster top speed, smoother on rough terrain, but slower to accelerate and heavier.
• Durometer (a) — how hard the urethane is. Higher number = harder, faster on smooth surfaces, less grip, better for slides. Lower number = softer, more grip, better on rough terrain, absorbs vibration.

Pick both based on what and where you're skating. A street skater on smooth concrete wants different wheels than a commuter rolling through a cracked city sidewalk.

Wheel Size by Riding Style

Diameter: Bigger vs. Smaller

Small Wheels (49–54mm)

Small wheels accelerate quickly, feel light underfoot, and sit low to the ground for a stable, connected feel. They're standard for street skating because flipping and spinning the board is easier with less rotational mass, and small wheels rarely cause wheel bite on standard-width decks.

The downside: small wheels are terrible on rough pavement. A 51mm wheel hits every crack and pebble. If you're cruising across cracked sidewalks or rough asphalt, small wheels make for a brutal, slow ride.

Medium Wheels (54–60mm)

The versatile middle ground. These wheels work for skatepark use, casual street skating, and moderate cruising. They roll well enough over small cracks without the full vibration-absorption of a cruiser wheel, and they're light enough to still do tricks. At this size you'll want 1/8"–1/4" risers depending on truck tightness.

Large Wheels (60mm+)

Large wheels maintain speed over rough terrain and carry momentum far longer than small wheels. They're the right choice for city commuting, longboarding, and distance pushing. The trade-off is weight, height (requiring taller risers), and reduced trick ability.

Wheels over 60mm almost always need 3/8" or more of riser height, especially with loose trucks.

Durometer: Hard vs. Soft

Hard Wheels (95a–101a+)

Hard wheels are fast on smooth concrete, slide predictably for powerslides and grinds, and don't absorb energy during tricks. Street and park skaters use hard wheels almost universally.

Hard wheels are unforgiving on rough terrain. Every crack and pebble transmits directly to your feet and board. If your local skate spot is rough concrete or asphalt, hard wheels will be frustrating to push on.

Medium Wheels (87a–95a)

Medium hardness is useful for skaters who do both tricks and cruising — they compromise between the smooth slides of hard wheels and the rough-terrain comfort of soft wheels. Many transition/park skaters end up in this range.

Soft Wheels (75a–87a)

Soft wheels grip pavement, absorb vibration from cracks, and roll smoothly over rough surfaces. They're essential for comfortable city cruising. The softer the wheel, the more grip — which means less slide, which is fine for cruising but limits certain trick types.

Soft wheels are typically larger (56mm+) because the target use case (cruising, longboarding) benefits from both the added diameter and the softer compound.

When You Need Riser Pads

Larger wheels sit higher in the truck hanger and can contact the underside of the deck during turns — this is wheel bite. Riser pads raise the trucks away from the deck to prevent this.

These are starting points — your exact setup may need more or less depending on deck concave and truck geometry. Use the Wheel Bite Tool to calculate clearance for your specific combination.

Wheel Contact Patch and Lip Profile

Two less-discussed specs that affect ride quality:

Contact Patch

The contact patch is the width of rubber that actually touches the ground. A wider contact patch gives more grip and stability; a narrower one is faster with less resistance. Cruiser wheels typically have wider contact patches for grip. Street wheels are narrow for speed and lighter feel.

Lip Profile

• Round lip — easier to slide, less grip, releases from grinds more smoothly
• Square lip — more grip, holds speed better on transitions, less likely to slide out

Street skaters often prefer round-lipped wheels. Park and transition skaters lean toward square lips. Cruiser wheels almost all have square lips for grip and stability.

Wheel Size and Bolt Length

Once you've picked your wheel size and the riser height it requires, you need to match your hardware length. The formula: bolt length = 7/8" + riser thickness.

Popular Wheel Brands by Category

Street / Hard Wheels

• Spitfire Formula Four — top-tier street wheel, consistent urethane, flat spots less easily
• Bones STF / SPF — Street Tech Formula and Skate Park Formula, both high-performance
• OJ Wheels — wide range, reliable, widely available

Cruiser / Soft Wheels

• Ricta Clouds — 78a and 86a options, extremely popular, great value
• Bones ATF — All-Terrain Formula, reliable cruiser wheels
• Orangatang — premium longboard/cruiser wheels, more expensive
• Sector 9 Butterball — smooth 80a, good for rough pavement

All-Around / Medium

• Spitfire Classics 99a — versatile hardness, works for park and light cruising
• Ricta Speedrings — 95a, good for transition and smoother streets

Frequently Asked Questions

What size wheels do beginners need?

For street and park learning: 52–54mm, 99a. For cruising and transportation: 56–60mm, 78a–82a. Most complete skateboards come with 52–54mm wheels, which is a fine starting point for learning tricks. If you're primarily commuting, swap to larger soft wheels immediately.

Can I put larger wheels on any skateboard?

Yes, with the right risers. You can put 62mm wheels on a standard street deck — you just need 3/8"–1/2" risers and longer hardware. The wheel itself doesn't care about the deck; it's the clearance that matters.

Do hard or soft wheels go faster?

On smooth surfaces: hard wheels are faster. On rough surfaces: soft wheels carry more speed because they absorb bumps instead of losing momentum to vibration. For most real-world surfaces (imperfect concrete, asphalt), a 78a cruiser wheel outrolls a 101a street wheel over any meaningful distance.

What happens if wheels are too big without risers?

Wheel bite — when the wheel contacts the deck during a turn, the board stops dead. This usually throws you off immediately. It's not gradual; it's an abrupt, dangerous stop. Always verify clearance when running larger wheels.