How to Build a Skateboard from Scratch

Parts list overview

A complete skateboard needs 7 types of parts:

1. Deck — the board you stand on
2. Grip tape — sandpaper-like sheet applied to the top of the deck
3. Trucks — the metal axle assemblies that mount to the underside
4. Wheels — urethane wheels that fit on the truck axles
5. Bearings — 2 per wheel (8 total) that allow the wheels to spin
6. Hardware — 8 bolts and 8 nuts that attach the trucks to the deck
7. Riser pads — optional spacers between trucks and deck for wheel clearance

You also need one tool: a skate tool (or a 9/16″ socket wrench and Phillips screwdriver).

Step 1 — Choose a deck

Start with the deck because everything else is sized to match it.

What width? Match deck width to your shoe size. Most adults with shoe size US 9–11 ride 8.0\"–8.25\". Kids and smaller riders go narrower; larger riders go wider. For street tricks, slightly narrower (7.75\"–8.1\") gives lighter, more flippable feel. For transition (ramps, bowls) and cruising, wider (8.25\"–8.75\") gives more platform stability.

What brand/quality? A mid-range deck ($45–$65) from an established skate brand (Real, Girl, Almost, Baker, Santa Cruz, Element, Plan B) is the right call for most beginners. Avoid non-skate-brand decks from big-box stores — they use inferior wood and lose pop quickly. Budget option: Mini Logo blanks ($30–$40) use quality wood with no graphics.

→ Full guide: Skateboard Deck Guide | Deck Size Guide

Step 2 — Apply grip tape

Grip tape goes on before trucks — once trucks are mounted, applying grip tape is much harder.

Peel the backing, lay the tape sticky-side-down centered on the deck, press firmly from the middle outward to remove air bubbles, use a bolt or hard edge to crease along the deck rail, then trim with a razor blade. Poke holes at the truck bolt locations with a bolt or nail.

→ Full guide: How to Apply Grip Tape

Step 3 — Choose trucks

Truck axle width should match deck width within about 1/4\". For an 8.0\" deck, use trucks with axle width ~8.0\" (Independent Stage 11, Thunder 148, Venture 5.2, etc.). Going significantly wider or narrower than the deck changes the geometry and feel negatively.

Truck height affects wheel clearance: low trucks (under 53mm) suit smaller wheels; mid (53–55mm) suit most standard setups; high (55mm+) suit larger wheels and add riser-like clearance. For a standard beginner street setup, mid-height trucks with 52–54mm wheels work without risers.

Budget: Independent, Thunder, Venture, and Tensor are all reliable brands. A pair of trucks costs $45–$90 depending on brand and tier.

→ Full guide: How to Choose Skateboard Trucks

Step 4 — Choose wheels

Wheel choice depends on where you skate:

If you're getting wheels larger than 54mm, you'll likely need riser pads (see Step 7).

→ Full guides: How to Choose Skateboard Wheels | Wheel Size Guide

Step 5 — Choose bearings

All skateboard bearings are the same size (608-standard) and fit any wheel and truck combination. Don't overthink this. Bones Reds ($18–22 for 8) are the industry-standard recommendation at every level. Bronson G2 is a solid alternative.

Avoid bearings from non-skate retailers — they often use inferior steel and inconsistent lubrication.

→ Full guide: Skateboard Bearing Guide

Step 6 — Choose hardware

Hardware = the 8 bolts and 8 nuts that attach your trucks to the deck. Standard bolt length for no-riser setups: 7/8\" (22mm) or 1\" (25mm). If you add risers, you need longer bolts.

Allen-head bolts are easier to tighten than Phillips-head without stripping. Either works fine. Budget $4–$8 for a set.

→ Full guide: Skateboard Hardware Guide | Bolt Length Calculator

Step 7 — Riser pads (if needed)

Riser pads are optional spacers between the truck and deck that lift the trucks and create more clearance between the wheels and the deck. You need them when larger wheels would otherwise contact (bite) the deck during turns.

General rule: wheels 54mm and under typically don't need risers with standard trucks. 54–56mm: add 1/8\" (3mm). 56–60mm: add 1/4\" (6mm). 60mm+: add 1/2\" (10mm) or more.

Riser pads also come as wedge shapes (angled), which change the turning geometry of the truck. This is used for surfskate, carving, and longboard setups. You can design custom wedge risers at any angle using the RISER 3D tool.

→ Full guide: Riser Height Guide | Beginner's Guide to Riser Pads

Assembly order

1. Apply grip tape to the bare deck (before trucks).
2. Press bearings into wheels: press each bearing onto the axle and then push the wheel down onto it. 2 bearings per wheel, 4 wheels = 8 bearings total.
3. Mount trucks: push the 8 bolts up through the deck (through the holes in the grip tape), place riser pad if using one, set the truck baseplate over the bolts, and thread on the nuts. Tighten evenly in a cross pattern until snug — not overtightened, which can crack the deck.
4. Mount wheels: slide a speed washer onto the axle, then the wheel (with bearings), then another speed washer, then thread on the axle nut. Tighten until the wheel has minimal side play but still spins freely.
5. Set truck tightness: flip the board and test turning by leaning to each side. Loosen the kingpin nut (counter-clockwise) if turns feel stiff. See Truck Tightness Guide for starting settings.
6. Check for wheel bite: lean the board hard to each side by hand and check the gap between the wheel edge and the deck. If the wheel contacts the deck: add a riser pad. Use the Wheel Bite Tool to check before buying parts.

Beginner complete build spec

Complete vs custom-built — which is better?

If you're buying from a real skate shop, a complete ($100–$150) is a reasonable shortcut. Skate-shop completes use decent components and are properly assembled. The tradeoff is you don't get to choose each component.

If you're buying from a big-box retailer, the cheaper price doesn't save money — the cheap components (especially bearings and wheels) wear out fast, and the whole board needs upgrading within months. Building from parts with quality components costs more upfront but lasts significantly longer.

The sweet spot for many beginners: buy the deck and trucks at a skate shop (they're the high-cost, harder-to-upgrade components), and use quality bearings and wheels you've chosen yourself.