How to Change Skateboard Wheels

What you need

• Skate tool — a T-shaped multi-tool with a 5/16\" socket for axle nuts and a Phillips/Allen socket for hardware. A standard 5/16\" wrench or socket also works.
• New wheels (4) — all four standard skateboard wheels use the same 608 bearing size, so they're compatible with any truck axle.
• Speed rings — thin metal washers that go between the bearing and the hanger, and between the bearing and the axle nut. Most wheels include them; if not, standard speed rings are cheap and available at any skate shop.
• Bearing press or axle tip — for pressing bearings out of old wheels and into new ones. The axle step on any truck acts as a bearing-removal lever in a pinch.

Optional: bearing cleaner or isopropyl alcohol if you're cleaning the bearings while they're out.

Step-by-step wheel change

Step 1: Remove the axle nut

Use the skate tool's 5/16\" socket to unscrew the axle nut counter-clockwise from each wheel. Keep both the nut and the speed ring that's between the nut and the wheel — these go back onto the new wheels. Place them somewhere they won't roll away.

If the axle nut is seized (often the case on older setups), spray a tiny amount of penetrating oil or WD-40 on the threads and wait 30 seconds before trying again.

Step 2: Slide the wheel off

The wheel should slide straight off the axle once the nut is removed. There's a speed ring between the wheel and the truck hanger — keep this too. If the wheel is sticky, give it a slight wiggle while pulling outward.

You now have the bare axle with just the outer speed ring (between hanger and where the wheel was) still on it. Leave this in place.

Step 3: Remove the bearings from the old wheel

This is where most beginners use the wrong technique and damage their bearings. The safe method:

1. Hook the wheel over the axle step — the narrow shoulder just inside where the thread starts on most axles.
2. Push down on the wheel at an angle while pulling out. The axle step will lever the bearing out without pressing on the ball races.
3. Flip the wheel and repeat for the second bearing.

If you have a dedicated bearing press tool, use the appropriate puller to avoid any side-load on the bearing. Never use a screwdriver pried into the bearing race — you'll crack the inner race or bend the shield.

Step 4: Inspect the bearings

While the bearings are out, spin each one between your fingers. They should spin freely for 3–5 seconds with a smooth, quiet whir. If they're gritty, slow, or noisy, this is a good time to clean and re-lube them — see How to Clean Skateboard Bearings for the process. If they're cracked or seized, replace them.

Step 5: Press bearings into new wheels

Press one bearing into each side of each new wheel. The bearing should go in flush — you'll feel it seat when it's fully in. Pressing method:

• Place the bearing centered on the wheel hub opening (outer race side down, so the shield faces the inside of the wheel).
• Use the axle to press: thread the wheel onto the axle over the bearing, then push down until the bearing seats flush. You should feel and hear a subtle click/stop.
• Flip and repeat for the second side bearing.

Alternatively, use a bearing press tool if you have one — it seats bearings evenly without side-loading the balls.

Step 6: Mount the new wheel

Thread the new wheel onto the axle:

1. Check that the inner speed ring is on the axle (between the hanger and where the wheel sits).
2. Slide the wheel onto the axle.
3. Place the outer speed ring on the axle, between the wheel and the nut.
4. Thread the axle nut on by hand until it catches.

Step 7: Set axle nut tightness

See the axle nut tightness section below for the correct technique — overtightening is one of the most common and damaging mistakes.

Step 8: Repeat for all four wheels

It's usually easiest to do all four wheels in sequence on one truck, then move to the other, rather than swapping all four at once. This way you always have one side ready to reference if you're unsure about parts order.

Transferring bearings — what to know

Bearings are fully interchangeable between wheels. All standard skateboard wheels use the same 608 bearing (8mm bore, 22mm outer diameter, 7mm width). This means your bearings from old 52mm wheels work identically in new 65mm wheels — no size matching needed.

There are two bearings per wheel, one on each side. Between them, inside the wheel hub, there's usually a bearing spacer — a small metal cylinder that keeps the bearings parallel and takes the compression from tightening the axle nut. Many cheaper wheels leave this out, but it extends bearing life significantly. If your old wheels had spacers, transfer them too. If your new wheels include them, use the new ones.

Bearing orientation: on shielded bearings (most common), either side can face inward. On bearings with a rubber shield only on one side, point the shielded side toward the outside of the wheel (facing weather and ground debris).

Axle nut tightness

Getting axle nut tightness right is critical. Too tight crushes the bearings; too loose lets the wheel wobble and the nut can work itself off while riding.

Correct method:

1. Thread the nut on by hand until it catches properly.
2. Use the skate tool to tighten until the wheel stops wobbling side to side — snug but not fully torqued.
3. Back off 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
4. Spin the wheel. It should spin freely for at least 3–5 seconds when flicked and have minimal lateral play (a tiny amount of side-to-side play is acceptable; the wheel shouldn't wiggle noticeably).

If the wheel barely spins (1–2 seconds), loosen slightly. If it wobbles noticeably side to side, tighten slightly. This takes a few tries to feel correctly the first time.

Nylon locknuts vs standard nuts: most skateboards use nylon-insert locknuts that resist vibration loosening. Standard axle nuts will work loose more easily and should be checked periodically. If you're losing axle nuts frequently, switch to locknuts.

Wheel bite check after changing wheels

If your new wheels are larger in diameter than your old ones, you must check for wheel bite before your first ride. Wheel bite happens when the wheel contacts the underside of the deck during a hard turn — the board stops instantly.

How to check:

1. Place the board on the ground (not riding it yet).
2. Press hard on each rail of the deck — front and rear, left and right. Simulate the lean that happens in a hard turn.
3. Watch the wheel. It should not touch the underside of the deck at any point. There should be at least 1–2mm of visible clearance.
4. If the wheel scrapes or touches the deck: tighten the kingpin nut on the truck first. This reduces how much the truck leans during turns and may solve the problem without risers.
5. If tightening trucks isn't enough (or you don't want tighter trucks): add riser pads between the truck and deck.

Use the Wheel Bite Calculator to get a riser recommendation based on your wheel size, deck width, and truck setup. See How to Fix Wheel Bite for a full diagnosis if the problem persists.

Riser pad and bolt length changes

When you add riser pads to accommodate larger wheels, you also need longer bolts. Every 1/4\" (6mm) of riser requires about 1/4\" more bolt length. Use the Bolt Length Calculator for the exact size, or see this quick reference:

When to change wheels

Wheels don't have a fixed lifespan — they wear down gradually and the right time to replace them depends on how much you ride and how you ride. Signs it's time to change:

• Flat spot: a flat section on the wheel from a hard slide or locked wheel. You'll feel a thump-thump-thump when rolling. Flat spots don't go away with use — replace the affected wheel(s).
• Worn to small diameter: wheels that started at 58mm and are now 52mm have lost their diameter. They'll still roll, but ride feel changes and you may need a different riser height. Check the current size against the original spec.
• Cracks or chunks: visible damage to the urethane, especially on the riding surface. Stop riding on cracked wheels — chunks can break off suddenly.
• Uneven wear: one side of the wheel wearing faster (often from sliding in one direction). The wheel becomes oval in cross-section and develops a wobble.
• Change in use case: swapping from street to cruising (need larger, softer wheels) or vice versa. Wheels are setup-specific — the right wheel for one style is usually wrong for another.

Going to larger wheels — what changes

Switching from small street wheels (52–54mm) to larger cruiser wheels (60–65mm+) is one of the most common wheel changes, and it involves the most downstream effects:

See the full Skateboard Wheel Size Guide for diameter-to-use-case recommendations, and the Riser Height Guide for what size riser to add when going to larger wheels.