What We're Building
By the end of this guide, you'll design a 1/4" flat riser pad with a custom hexagon cutout pattern, ready to export as an STL file and 3D print. The design will work for any standard truck baseplate.
Step 1: Choose Your Base Shape
Open RISER 3D and select your starting base shape. For a first custom riser, choose "Cutout" — this gives you a solid mounting area around the bolt holes and an open center for your design.
- Solid: For no cutouts. Good for minimalist designs or strength testing.
- Cutout: Open center with solid mounting zones. This is your starting point.
- Wedge: If you want an angled riser instead of flat.
Select "Cutout" for now.
Step 2: Set Your Dimensions
Your riser needs to fit your trucks and deck. Most standard trucks have:
- Outer dimensions: About 7" wide × 3" front-to-back
- Bolt hole spacing: Standard "New School" 4-hole pattern
- Height: 1/4" (6mm) is a common starting point
Set these in the RISER 3D interface:
- Front height: 6mm
- Rear height: 6mm (leave flat for now)
- Hole pattern: New School (4-hole)
Step 3: Design Your Cutout Shape
This is where creativity comes in. RISER 3D lets you choose or design your outer shape. Options include:
- Preset shapes: Circles, hexagons, diamonds, checkerboard
- Custom cutouts: Define your own pattern by adjusting shape parameters
- Solid with slots: Keep the pad solid but add decorative slots
Pro tip for beginners: Start with a preset shape like "Hexagon" or "Checker." These are tested designs that maintain strength while looking great.
Step 4: Verify Mounting Zone Strength
Here's the critical part: ensure your cutout doesn't compromise the bolt hole mounting zones. RISER 3D shows you the mounting areas as solid regions. Make sure:
- The bolt holes are surrounded by at least 1cm of solid material on all sides
- The four mounting corners are fully solid
- The outer edge has at least 5mm of material for structural integrity
If your design cuts too close to a bolt hole, strengthen it. The mounting zones take all the stress from the trucks.
Step 5: Add Details (Optional)
Want to make it truly custom? Add:
- Text: Your initials, a skate shop name, anything
- Pattern tweaks: Adjust the cutout size or spacing
- Wedge angle: Add a 3-degree wedge for extra turn responsiveness
Text is surprisingly durable if you keep it bold (avoid thin letterforms). Patterns should follow the existing cutout theme for best results.
Step 6: Generate and Preview
Click "Preview" to see a 3D rendering of your riser. Check for:
- Symmetry: Does it look balanced front-to-back?
- Clearance: Is there any unexpected geometry that might hit your trucks?
- Cutout quality: Do the cutout edges look clean (no thin slivers)?
If something looks off, go back and adjust. Better to fix it now than after printing.
Step 7: Export as STL
Once you're happy with the design, click "Export STL." The file will be ready to 3D print. This creates a .stl file that every 3D printer understands.
- File location: Check your downloads folder
- File size: Usually 200–500KB depending on complexity
- Orientation: The STL is already oriented for best print quality
Step 8: Prepare for Printing
Before you print, prepare your print settings:
- Material: PETG (strongly recommended for skateboard parts)
- Infill: 100% (non-negotiable for structural parts)
- Nozzle temperature: 235°C for PETG
- Bed temperature: 85°C for PETG
- Print speed: 40–50 mm/s (slow but creates strong parts)
- Layer height: 0.2mm (standard, good strength-to-speed balance)
Step 9: Print and Test
Load the STL into your slicing software (Cura, PrusaSlicer, etc.), apply the settings above, and print. The print should take 90–120 minutes.
Once printed, inspect the riser:
- Look for cracks or soft spots around the bolt holes
- Test flexing — it should flex slightly but not bend easily
- Make sure the top surface is flat (check with a ruler)
If everything looks solid, mount it on your board and take it for a test ride on flat ground. Listen for any odd sounds or feel unusual flex.
Step 10: Iterate
Tried it and want to tweak something? That's the beauty of DIY. Go back to step 1, modify the design, and print again. After a few iterations, you'll have the perfect custom riser.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Cutout too aggressive: Removing too much material weakens the riser. Keep cutouts to the center, leave mounting zones solid.
- Thin slivers: Avoid design details that create slivers thinner than 1mm. They break during printing.
- Forgetting to check bolt hole clearance: Verify your bolt holes are standard sized (4mm for standard bolts).
- Printing without 100% infill: We've said it before, but low infill risers crack immediately. Don't do it.
Ready to Design?
The best way to learn is by doing. Jump into RISER 3D, follow these steps, and create your first custom riser.